Hot answers tagged

20

In general, nitrogenation imparts a creamier, smoother texture to a beer. The bubbles are smaller in size than CO2 bubbles, and the reduced solubility results in a thicker beverage, which is both delicious, and results in that visually appealing 'cascade' effect. Also, you can do this with a Nitro beer. And that's awesome.


9

I've never seen any evidence that Germans use anything but CO2, so if you have a source that'd be cool. That said, for getting beer out of the cask/keg/barrel you generally have 3 options: Pressurized gas. As mentioned by the other answer this is most commonly CO2 since CO2 is produced by yeast, so if you sealed the container while yeast were still ...


8

For a keg system to pour beer without excessive foam, the system must be balanced, and the serving line/faucet free of obstructions. Serving beer at too high a pressure, or through a half-open faucet/tap agitates the beer, causing the foam you saw. The system is balanced by having the pressure inside the keg set to just a touch more (0.5-1psi) than the ...


7

Beer kegged in the USA is usually stored cold and consumed quickly. Therefore, sterile filtration is all that's needed. To make it stable in a wider variety of temperatures, especially shipping it over an ocean, they pasteurize it. From Pasteurized Kegged Beer: Non-Pasteurized For the most part keg beer brewed and packaged in kegs in the U.S. is ...


6

Just wanted to add to some of the already great answers… Although it has been mentioned what the characteristics of Nitro are, and why that might be good for the beer drinking experience, it hasn't really been said why to use it or rather why its used in lieu of CO2. History It was mentioned that the historical carbonation process was very different, ...


5

I don't see CO2 versus nitrogen making a difference in freshness. You are probably thinking that because nitrogen is an inert (ie non-reactive) gas that is used in some packaging to extend the shelf life of some foods like fresh pasta, using it instead of CO2 would extend the life of your beer. However, beer already has significant amounts of CO2 dissolved ...


5

There are a few things you can check with you keg. You said it's a home built system, yes? So is this a mini-fridge conversion, chest freezer/keezer conversion, or some other kit? Anyway, what length are the beer lines? Generally you need to balance CO2 pressure against beer lines to avoid consistently foamy pours. If your system isn't properly balanced ...


4

Avoiding agitating the beer and reducing the temperature are the two key ways to slow down the rate of staling, but really once there's air in the beer it's just a matter of time before it goes bad. Have you considered using a small CO2 charger like this - This uses small CO2 cartridges to push the beer. The advantage being that the keg won't stale ...


4

You were right to lower the temperature. Beer (or any liquid for that matter) is better at retaining gasses at lower temperatures. Therefore: cold beer = less gas released = less foam produced. Occam's Razor says your keg is probably warm. I'd check if your temperature is correct. Make sure the temperature is being checked from the bottom of the keg, as ...


4

There is one new "sneaky" technique, where the beer is in a bag inside the keg. To create pressure, air is pumped into the area between the bag and the keg.


3

I am going out on a limb and interpret "stay good" as "stay carbonated/nitrogenated." That being said, carbonation of beer has a lot to do with temperature and pressure. If you are using a kegerator, you need to pay attention to: the temperature of your beer; the distance the beer has to travel to the tap; how well insulated that line is; and how much ...


3

Soo... There are two main ways to push beer out of a keg. Carbon Dioxide and regular air. Most bars use CO2 (and Nitrogen in some cases) to push the beer out. Your regular backyard kegger uses regular air which is full of oxygen. A keg will not go bad if you take it offline as long as it was being filled with CO2 at the right pressure. (Or let's say it won't ...


3

I have done this with homebrew beer, but never commercially-bottled beer. The issues should be the same, though: You will significantly shorten the beer's lifespan due to the oxygenation, but if you fill the keg as full as you can so there's little to no airspace at the top and you're drinking it all that day, you'll be fine. When you force-carbonate after ...


2

I prefer DrinkGAS. It's a good solution for a party, I use it in my restaurants.


2

Because CO2 has a significantly higher affinity for water (and therefore beer), than O2 or N2 (the other major components in air) under normal keg conditions (pressure and temperature), I think it's worth a shot: If you take off the air pump and start charging it with CO2, and then pump a good bit of beer/foam out of it (to rid it of some of the air), you ...


2

In general, beers that are served with nitro tend to be smoother than their CO2 counterpart. Personally, I've had Left Handed Milk Stout Nitro and Standard side by side and much preferred the Nitro version.


2

the bubbles are most probably just CO2 coming out of suspension. This can be due to temperature diffences between the beer and the beerline, or because of something causing the agitation (dirt in the beerline). If the beer is overcarbonated this will happen quicker. Try to get the beer & beerline at the same temp, or get the beerline even colder.


2

If I want to cool something really quick and not using a fire extinguisher, I use the method I saw on Myth Busters: Find a container that will hold the item you want to chill, add ice, water, and salt. Even on a hot day you can chill things real fast using this method.


2

I know I'm a few days late but the worry I'd have leaving a keg outside in cold weather is the pressure changes. CO2 absorbs more in colder conditions, but if anything freezes, even partially, CO2 gets driven out of solution. Normally when you refrigerate kegs indoors they're hooked up to gas, so as pressure in the headspace drops it's less likely the keg ...


2

There are two usual ways to extract beer from a barrel. By gravity, one places a tap a short way up from the base and you allow air into the top. When you open the tap beer comes out. Generally you want to drink the beer quickly in this situation as it will go off. This method is commonly seen in beer exhibitions. The other method is to use an ...


2

TL:DR; Not a lot of difference, but science favors carbonation for long-term storage. In a keg system, long-term storage isn't a factor, and there's no appreciable difference. In order to answer your question, a couple of things, first. 'Stay good'; is somewhat nebulous, but let's say that it consists of three things; 1. Not being oxidized or lightstruck 2. ...


1

All beer has CO2 in it, whether or not its added artificially, even nitro pours. Not sure if you mean a gravity based pull system, or maybe a nitro tap line? Nitro beers use a gas mix of mostly nitrogen to some parts CO2 to give the beer a richer, creamier body and head.


1

Here is a great site http://www.draughtquality.org/ Download the free manual and I am sure it will help you.


1

Lots of good, in-depth answers here. It looks like nobody (edit: looks like Soloem did, actually) mentioned the obvious: close your supply line and bleed excess CO2 from the keg. Sometimes a keg will come to you highly carbonated and you just have to bleed it. Sometimes you have to bleed it a few times (before you begin dispensing for the day). As long ...


1

I found an awesome resource: Draft Beer Quality. They have a very nifty pdf Manual that you can download for free!


1

Another something to look at: your beerline. Check for flaws, sharp bends, particles. Check your taps as well, as an imperfection there might cause the problem.


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible